Sejak duo asal Portugis Paulo Almeida dan Marta Marques merilis produk pakainanya pada tahun 2011, mereka telah menjadi salah satu leader industri fashion di dunia. Saat ini dengan kolaborasi dengan Topshop dimana produknya telah dilaunching pada 9 Oktober yang lalu, mereka sedang merancang produk terbaru. Meskipun terkesan 90an, koleksi terbaru Marques’Almeida’s ini tetap terlihat modern dan mantap untuk dipakai.(KA/Olivia Singer)
Other than Sofia, what inspired your collaboration with Topshop?
How do the two of you work as a team – is it a harmonious dynamic?
Marques’Almeida: We disagree all the time! But we think that’s a very good thing; Paulo and I have very different ways of working, different skills and also different aesthetics but it has been the combination of the two that has made MA what it is. We can discuss the proportion of a sleeve for ages, it’s quite fun. But we also understand each other very instinctively – we’ve known each other for 10 years and worked pretty much always side by side so we’re very used to working together, we don’t know it any other way.
There’s a lot more colour in the new collaboration and your SS15 range than you traditionally use – what inspired the shift from a more monochrome palette?
Marques’Almeida: We’ve been gradually growing our collections and range and started introducing more colour for AW13 and that’s what really pushed this Topshop collection too. I guess there’s never a specific reason as to why we do something like that because it’s instinctively what we feel like doing creatively at the time.
You say that archive copies of magazines like The Face influence a lot of your research – where do you find them?
Marques’Almeida: We used to look at all of them at the Central Saint Martins library back when we were doing our MA – but after that, we bought our own vintage copies and continue to do so! We have a few editorials and adverts that we really like: old Katharine Hamnett adverts, shoots done by Corinne Day and Melanie Ward…
How do you keep your aesthetic modern whilst retaining these influences?
Marques’Almeida: That was always a very big thing for us: the collection could be nostalgic but it shouldn’t feel vintage. I think that we design pretty much based on mood and attitude rather than being product focused – so I think that what we take out of the 90s is the kind of attitude and vibe. When we design, we instinctively look for something new and fresh so hopefully it comes out that way.
What sort of girl are you designing for?
Marques’Almeida: Quietly defiant women and girls.
What five tracks did you listen to most when you were designing the collection?
Marques’Almeida: We were listening to a lot of Skunk Anansie and Lauryn Hill!